Laundry Cabinet Case Dovetails fit, ready for shelf dados.

Finally getting back to my laundry cabinet build. The vise is mostly mounted. I haven’t written the longer post yet, because its a pain in the rear end to write a long post with pictures from my phone. The app locks up, but all the pics are on my phone. I’ll figure it out.

I’m happy with the dove tails. The case is square and I think all the gaps will close up on the inside when I clamp up during glue up. Gaps here.

The outside looks good to me. Not too gappy tails and pins.

Here’s a shot of the side. It’s 38 inches tall and 24 wide by 11 1/4 deep. All the pieces are left overs from my bookcase build. I like that I’ve gotten to a point where I can fit pieces to the design and not be tied to a cut list. All the dimensions were determined by what cutoffs I had. You can see that I’m determining the shelf height by the size of the largest thing I think will go in, a bottle of bleach. I’m putting 2 shelves in and I’ll use housing dados.

Here’s a shot of my planing stop for Brian Eve. It took so much sizing and fitting, I didn’t want it to get thrown away, since it’s just a piece of syp 2×4. I also wrote stop on it so I’d know which side is up. It works really well and I’m glad I made it 4 inches wide. I rarely, if ever, clamp or holdfasts a board down when I use it. It’s about a year old now and hard as a rock.

Had a great day in the shop, but I did go out this morning and look what followed me home from the antique mall. A Robert Sorby No 35 12 inch brass back saw. It had a kink in the back, but I used Paul’s pull it/slide it out of the vise against the bend method. He demonstrates this with a gent saw but after a few pulls it straightened mine right out. It was owned by some fellow named P Thomas. I got it for 25 bucks. Mr. P Thomas rehandled it I think, since the saw nuts are steel and there is no medallion. He did a fantastic job. The handle fits my hand and there is a little cut out on the right side where your fore finger drops right in. 

Straight now.

Close up of the Sorby marks. Apparently, the Kangaroo mark means after 1847. I’m guessing 1900? Anyone who knows more I’d love to know.

Mr. P THOMAS also put his mark on the back and the handle.

Saw handle.

I haven’t decide how much to do. This will be a user for me, but she does need some love and a sharpening. I’ll probably sand the plate to get the antique store shellac over rust off. Then I’ll probably lightly sand and oil the handle. I want to keep the P Thomas mark. I think it deserves it. I hope where ever Mr P Thomas is he’s glad his saw will go back into service. Although I can say with certainty that he must have been better with it than me ;), but I’m getting there. Take Care and thanks for reading.

Chris 

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About senrabc

Hi, this is not really about anything. Just me testing the intertubes with my own random meanderings and thoughts. Ostensibly, big word, I’m using this site as my personal log of sorts. I’m a random guy with 4 kids and a beautiful wife living in sunny Florida. Pardon the gratuitous posts with pictures of cute kids. I have an iPhone and can’t help myself. My day job is working in the area of informatics at the University of Florida where I like the shell. Oh, yeah and incase you can’t tell I like woodworking with handtools. Goes along with my command line philosophy 😉 Thanks for reading. Christopher P. Barnes
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9 Responses to Laundry Cabinet Case Dovetails fit, ready for shelf dados.

  1. bloksav says:

    What a great find, I would also just go for a gentle clean up of the saw. Surviving that long also means that it deserves to be used.
    I don’t know how you plan on fitting the cabinet to the wall, but from personal experience I know that those types of cabinets tend to be filled to the brim with detergents, household chemicals etc. and that ends up weighing a lot. So it might be a good idea to plan on how to mount it, so you can avoid having a dented top cover on the washing machine as I did.
    Brgds
    Jonas

    • senrabc says:

      Hey Jonas,

      Thanks for the warning. I have been concerend about that. I’m putting a frame and panel back on and then I’m thinking of putting on a french cleat that would mate with about and 8 ft matching rail on the wall screwed to the studs. If the boss, aka my wife, likes my work I get to make a matching one to mount next to it. She gets to paint them, though. She likes Ralphs purple color on the one he made for his shop.

      Take care

      Chris

  2. Matt McGrane says:

    Hey Chris. Before you glue up, make sure to clamp up dry first to be sure the dovetails will close those inside gaps. If not, may need to adjust or use cauls, etc. Also, nice find on the saw. That’s about the exact type of saw I’d like to find. If you use sandpaper on the plate, and if there is any kind of etch, make sure you use a sanding block so as not to remove the etch. DAMHIKT!

    • senrabc says:

      Hey Matt,
      Great tips. You’re right I’ll be careful on the plate. I had started to sand it by hand. I’ll switch to a block. I was thinking I may need to use cauls. This is the largest case I’ve ever dovetailed, so I’m in new territory for me. Thanks for reading. Hope all is well with you. Have a great day in the shop.

      Chris

    • senrabc says:

      Hey Matt,
      Hope all is well with you. Thanks for the tips. I think I will try clamping up with cauls dry now. The boards have developed some cupping, but it seems to come out with hand pressure. This is the largest thing I’ve ever dovetailed so thanks for all the advice. I’ll go gentle on the saw, I hadn’t thought about an etch. I’ll be more careful. Have a great day in the shop.

      Chris

  3. Brian Eve says:

    Next time you do dovetails on a case, try the trick where you add a shallow rabbet to the tails before laying out the pins. Among other advantages, it will hide any tiny gaps on the inside corner of the case.

    Great find with the saw, and I love your planing stop. It’s just like mine.

    • senrabc says:

      I’ll have to try the rabbet trick. I’m always either to close or too far when I line up to mark out tails. I didn’t help that my boards had cupped a little after I cut the tails. Thanks for the tips.

      Take Care,
      Chris

  4. Hi Chris,
    from looking at the gaps on the dovetails it looks to me like you are over chopping them just like I do. As careful as I am with that I still do it and I may try Brian’s suggestion on the shallow rabbet thing.

    • senrabc says:

      Yeah. I’ll have to try it. I’m just horrible at making rabbets with my stanley 78. I never seem to get the tip of the blade protruding out the body right. It’s either too much or too little. I’ll just have to practice on some scraps. Thanks for reading.

      Take Care,
      Chris

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